We are the Original formulators of Retinaldehyde, Phosphtidylcholine and
Niacinamine Serums in the US.
Retinaldehyde vs. Other Retinols
Which is best for the skin?
Retinaldehyde is the most exciting and well researched skin care ingredient
on the market today! For years is has been researched and applauded as one of the most active ingredients in the skin
but has been too expensive to use in skin care products. Through our unique lab partnership and new technology, we are
able to bring to you our liposome coated Retinaldehyde.
In our bodies we convert Beta-Carotene into Retinol,
Retinol into Retinaldehyde, and then Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid (Retin A tm). All of these retinoids have important
and proven activity in the skin in an escalating level from Beta-Carotene to Retinoic Acid, respectively. Retinoic Acid
is the only retinoid that requires a prescription even though Retinaldehyde has a similar activity level. Both Retinoic
Acid and Retinaldehyde are substantially more active (500 times more!) than their Vitamin A counterparts which means we
can use smaller amounts to achieve desired results. The importance of this will be explained shortly.
All of the retinoids have a tough time penetrating through the epidermis because of their large particle size. One
study showed that only 2% of a topically applied retinol penetrated through the upper barrier of the skin. Therefore,
to have an effect on the dermis, larger volumes are often required. Unfortunately, that means that 98% of those larger
volumes of retinol are sitting on top of the skin doing nothing but working against you by irritating and over-exfoliating.
The advantage of using Retinaldehyde or Retinoic Acid is that smaller amounts, with much higher activity levels, can be used
Retinoic Acid and all retinoids are most effective in their "all-trans" configuration
and that is how most Retin A (tm) is delivered.....The bad new is that "all-trans" retinols are significantly
more expensive and by law are identified on the labels are "all-trans"....(not L-retinol AGP, Retinyl Palmitate,
Retinol/Vitamin A) The other bad news is that All-trans Retinol has a defect in its methodology...
the skin converts Retinaldehyde to Retinoic Acid, it cannot be reconverted to a form of Vitamin A that can be stored in the
skin! That is why the skin converts only enough to perform the desired function and leaves the rest in the skin's
storage units in forms of Retinaldehyde and/or Retinol.
If you apply topical Retin A (tm), the
skin cannot shut it off which results in two things; irritation from over-stimulation and over-exfoliation and a probability
for the Retinoic Acid receptors to down regulate. All-trans Retinoic Acid has, by far, the most receptors of any retinoids
and that is what makes it so potent. However, chronic stimulation (as in the case for every receptor in the body), results
in fewer active receptors and thus diminished results over time.
is the best form possible from the above listed retinoids. In addition to having its own receptor activity, it is the
immediate precursor of Retinoic Acid so the skin will convert a significant amount to that form upon application. The
good news is that there will never be an over-stimulation problem because the skin regulates that conversion and uses just
what it needs.
Research has repeatedly shown that Retinaldehyde has a similar activity profile to Retin
A (tm) but with much less irritation. (practically none)
The issue of penetration remains the same
for retinaldehyde as is does for the other forms. To fix this problem we have incorporated liposomes to enhance
the penetration of Retinaldehyde. Coating this ingredient in liposomes also helps to prevent oxidation which occurs
with all retinoids.
Until recently, this ingredient was far too expensive to use in skin care formulations.
But through our unique lab partnership, we are able to use the highest percentage of this active ingredient and bring it to
the professional marketplace.