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Understanding Your Skin


Skin Care Philosophies

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NORMAL SKIN 

I know many of you would like to believe you do not fall under any “skin condition” category.  Unfortunately, unless you live in a bubble where time stands still, your skin is aging through free radicals from your diet, lifestyle and sun exposure.  No need to panic.  Just visit the photodamage/aging section if you are 13 or older.  Your goal would be to maintain the thickness and health of your skin with the understanding that it is in decline from the age of 13 going forward.


ACNE
 

It is becoming more and more accepted that acne is the result of factors far removed from the affected skin itself.  There is irrefutable evidence that care and cleansing of the colon can dramatically improve skin blemishes throughout the body.  For this reason, an internal detox program of is often very successful.  The other clear link is an elevated level of activity of Testosterone.  This occurs mostly at the skin’s receptor sites although individuals with elevated serum levels of testosterone often do have an associated acne condition and/or oil and pore problem.  Regardless of the emphasis currently placed on the bacteria in the skin by many physicians and skincare professionals, bacteria play a relatively minor role when all other factors are considered.  Inflammation, on the other hand, is a major contributor as it stimulates sebum production, localized swelling around the follicle and scarring.  In our view, the patient starts with addressing what we see as the source of the problem, detox of the body, (especially the colon).  Secondly, we need to address the multiple factors on the skin itself; reducing sebum and testosterone activity, stimulating cell turnover, calming inflammation and minimizing the number of bacteria. 


Product:
 
B'bye Anti-Blemish Serum/Anti-Blemish Rx or  Perfection Junkie Serum

Topically B’bye Anti-Blemish Serum/Anti-Blemish Rx  has five potent sebum reducing ingredients; pregnenolone, retinaldehyde, nordiguairetic acid, phosphatidylcholine  and oleanolic acid.  Perfection Junkie contains L-lactic, L-malic and L-tartaric acids along with calming Lavender. Oil provides a majority of the food for bacterial overgrowth, the less that is available, the smaller the bacterial population.  Usually, through chronic stimulation by irritants and testosterone, pores can enlarge and produce more oil.  In individuals with large pores, a prolonged course of our serum should be anticipated.  One other unique strategy to treating acne and oil is our “vascular detox” approach.  There is clear evidence that increased circulation enhances healing, helps remove impurities and restores antioxidants and depleted nutrients.  That is why we use retinaldehyde and high percentages of niacinamide.  


Antibacterial Effect:
  We live with millions of bacteria growing on us everyday (sorry if that doesn’t sound appealing).  They are not going anywhere and, if their numbers are controlled, they are actually an important part of the skin’s defense mechanism.  It is their excrement (in enlarged colonies) that stimulate an inflammatory reaction which results in a visible red and swollen follicle (pimple).  The reduction of oil and vascular detox provided by the ingredients listed above makes this process easier.  The following ingredients have safe, (immune system supporting) antibacterial effects; retinaldehyde, oleanolic acid, niacinamide, thymol, MSM and ASA.  Many physicians and skincare professionals might suggest benzoyl peroxide or antibiotics for this condition because of their antibacterial effects.  My belief is that the primary effect of antibiotics is their immunosuppression activity.  This will reduce inflammation/redness/swelling, but at what cost? 

There is no physician who wishes to keep their patient on long-term antibiotic therapy and there is a reason why.  Yes, the bacteria in/on us develop immunity, but it also weakens our immune system and promotes yeast toxin buildup which can result in worsening acne/oil.  Benzoyl peroxide is also immunosuppressing but through a different channel, it is an oxygen free radical promoter that ages your skin and depletes it of its antioxidants.  The end result, as it often is with antibiotics, is rebound acne because the inflammation from benzoyl peroxide stimulates oil which feeds bacterial overgrowth.
 

Anti-inflammatory Effect:  Once again, as with everything in the protocol, there is a synergy that results from the combination of all of these products so that each component has a positive affect on the other.  Detoxing, cleansing the colon, reducing oil and ultimately bacterial numbers, will reduce the overall level of inflammation.  The specific anti-inflammatory ingredients include ASA, niacinamide, aloe, chamomile extract, cucumber extractcoriander extract, and lavender.  Reducing inflammation reduces scarring, redness and swelling around the follicle while stopping the cycle of inflammation stimulating more oil which begets more inflammation (and so on…).


PHOTODAMAGE/AGING SKIN 
They say most of our sun damage happens in the first two decades of life.  If it is not too irresponsible let me take this opportunity to tell you that there is irrefutable evidence of the sun’s positive effects on cancer and overall health.  Just avoid prolonged exposure at any time and significant exposure (10+ minutes) during peak UVB times (11:00AM-3PM).  You can feel comfortable in the sun with a good sunblock (Undercover SPF 17, DayShield SPF 30) and the natural SPF of most clothes during non-peak hours (Ideally for less than 1 hour).  That being said, there are many associated damages to prolonged sun exposure.  The oxygen free radicals damage/destroy the cells that make antioxidants and other enzymes (mitochondria), new skin cells (keratinocytes), fibroblasts (our source of collagen, elastin, GAG’s) resulting in thinner, sagging skin that has more visible capillaries.  Our strategy is designed to reduce the amount of free radicals through supplementation, antioxidants and sun protection.   Secondly, we need to remodel the damaged collagen and rebuild the dermis.
 

Product:
Youth Serum: Aging/Photo-damaged Skin Serum/BioLift3000 Rx or DramaQueen Anti-aging Cream 


Antioxidant Protection: Fibroblast Stimulation:
  Fibroblasts are a main factor in the remodeling of damage to the dermis (middle and most critical layer of the skin).  They are responsible for the manufacturing of healthy new collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans (GAG’s).  All three of which are needed in significant quantities to prevent thinned, sagging, and vascular skin.  The beauty of substantial fibroblast stimulation is that the skin has fewer lines, less sagging and a masking of the normally visible capillaries by healthy skin tissue.
 

Vascular Stimulation: This component of a Pure Skin strategy is not fully appreciated by many in my opinion.  The massive web of capillaries that run through the skin provide the only source of nutrition and immune support for all layers of the skin.  Usually, those ingredients which increase vascularity have tremendous effects on the skin.  In our case, retinaldisome and niacinamide, are excellent at promoting remodeling efforts through this mechanism.
 

Fibroblast Stimulation:  This is the ultimate goal and one of the most challenging tasks.  Pure Skin Junkie/Pure Skin Solutions Rx has arguably the best fibroblast stimulator in skincare, retinaldehyde.  Dermatologists have been praising Retin A (tm) for the last decade because of its potent remodeling effects but many users complain that it comes at the price of irritation.  Research has proven (retinaldehyde studies) that not only does retinaldehyde have similar potency to Retin A (tm), it is much less irritating.  The only other knock against any of the retinols is that they are larger molecules that have a tough time penetrating into their target area, the dermis.  To combat this issue, we have created retinaldehyde which substantially enhances the penetration and activity of the molecule.


HYPERPIGMENTATION 

Hyperpigmentation (melanocytic proliferation) is most commonly the result of sun overexposure but a growing problem (and close second) is the epidemic of melasma.  Both sources require highly effective tyrosinase inhibitors to get the job done but there is more to it than that.  A common misunderstanding in the treatment of hyperpigmentation is in the adeptness of the melanocyte.  Most tests on tyrosinase inhibitors are done in labs and show the activity of an ingredient over a limited time frame.  More lengthy studies show that melanocytes may adapt to many of the more popular lightening agents rendering them ineffective.  To combat this, Pure Skin Junkie/Pure Skin Solutions Rx is taking only the best tyrosinase inhibitors and using all of them.  The combination of multiple mechanisms of action and high percentages of paper mulberry (study showed 0.4% paper mulberry was equivalent to + 5.5%  hydroquinone) make this a fantastic lightening agent.


Some may be surprised that we do not use hydroquinone.  There are very good reasons for not using this ingredient; the FDA is most certainly going to ban the use of it in the US, second, it is inflammatory and since inflammation activates melanocytes (pigment), the ingredient works against itself, third, its irritancy level can result in Exogenous Ochronosis, a permanent, deep bluish/black stain in the skin, and fourth, it often results in rebound hyperpigmentation once its use is discontinued.  The most important factor is that there are better choices, especially for those with hormonal pigmentation (melasma) as they often have to use these products for many years. We also recognize the value of two additional ingredients in treating this condition; retinaldisome and l-ascorbic acid.  To combat the oxidation problem of L-ascorbic acid, we provide it in a liposome powder form that you simply spread on your skin to get pure, 10% l-ascorbic acid every day.  Retinaldehyde is effective in many conditions and the use of retinols in the treatment of hyperpigmentation is well established.  Our advantage is that you have Retin A activity levels without the irritation and much better penetration.


Product:
Lighten Up! Brighten & Repair Serum/Lighten Up Rx 

What makes these products so unique is its diversity.  We approach skin color normalization with the attitude that first and foremost, free radicals need to be avoided.  This starts with all-natural, chirally corrected ingredients.  Secondly, antioxidants are provided in the form of pre-treatment with Nourish and Flourish (in the Pure Skin Junkie Hyperpigmentation Strategy) and then additional antioxidants in Lighten Up!  such as THC, Rumex and GABA.  I will not list all of the (12) lightening agents in the product here, but I will tell you that their varying mechanisms of action and the persistent potency of paper mulberry make this formula highly effective and fast acting.  We have chosen to replace hydroquinone with these better, safer alternatives because of its side effect profile.

  

ROSACEA/SENSITIVE SKIN

 

We have strong feelings on the approach to rosacea and have a track record of success so I encourage everyone to consider our philosophies with an open mind.  We are presented with clear evidence that “something” is causing the skin to be inflamed and most triggers are related to digestion/foods.  While some would argue that exercise and environmental changes are triggers, we view those as vascular stimulators (facial flushing occurs in all individuals) that are exaggerated by the existing inflamed state of the skin.  Vitamin and Mineral supplementation are an important aspect of our Rosacea Strategy as they provide restoration of the digestive tract, amongst other things.  To properly address rosacea, one focus has to be the rebuilding of the dermis which is rapidly depleted as a result of the chronic inflammation in the skin.  It is also extremely important to calm the skin without steroids or antibiotics which can interfere with wound repair. 

Product:
Chill Out!  Rosacea/Sensitive Skin Serum or Calm & Repair Rx

Anti-inflammatory EffectsInflammation is the culprit in this case; most of the redness we see is a normal repair response to correct the damage…that is a good thing.  MD’s and skincare professionals mistakenly place the blame on the vascular system and thus collapse these healing vessels with lasers.  Inflamed skin utilizes substantially more antioxidants, enzymes, proteins and lipids to keep up the effort.  This requires a ramped up vascular response so it is reasonable that we trust the skin is doing what it needs to do and we should assist wherever possible.  Pure Skin Junkie/Pure Skin Solutions Rx’s antioxidants are primarily those found naturally in the skin and that is why we provide such effective anti-inflammatory effects.  In addition, Canadian-Willow Herb is highly effective at calming the skin and is just as effective or better than cortisone without thinning the skin like cortisone products can.  The overall goal is to minimize the degradation of the skin and redirect the skin’s immune capabilities to rebuilding (instead of repair) efforts.
 
 
Skin Rebuilding Effects 
Many people would prefer to collapse capillaries, at Pure Skin Solutions, we choose to rebuild the collagen lost and blanket these nutrient vessels with more dermis so that they are less visible.  We also need to regulate the vascular activity.  Both these actions are achieved with retinaldisome.  Studies show that .05% retinaldehyde improves rosacea without irritating the skin.  Studies also show that retinaldehyde regulates VEGF(vascular endothelial growth factor), a key to its ability to normalize the redness often seen.  It doesn’t hurt that it is also exfoliating, antibacterial and sebum-regulating. 

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